Behind the construction fence for the Holy Year: Rome's head is spinning

For some, the empty Trevi Fountain is the last straw. "The city council can't be serious," says Rome guide Heidi as she explains to a group of Canadian tourists that the most famous fountain in the world is closed for renovation; a common sight in Rome just a few weeks before the Holy Year 2025. "Actually, you can only laugh now," says the guide, shrugging her shoulders.

Just like countless other sights in Rome, the Fontana di Trevi, which was completed in 1762, is currently being spruced up. This is because more than 30 million visitors are expected for the Catholic festive year (Giubileo), which Pope Francis plans to open in St Peter's Basilica on 24 December. And this in a city that can spell the word overtourism backwards and forwards.

"Caput Mundi" everywhere

Be it the Piazza Navona with the famous Fountain of the Four Rivers, the papal Basilica of St John Lateran or the selfie hotspot Bridge of Angels: Dozens of monuments are currently disappearing behind construction fences emblazoned with the "Caput Mundi" emblem.

The proud trademark from the hexameter "Roma caput mundi regit orbis frena rotundi" ("Rome, the capital of the world, controls the reins of the world") is reminiscent of the golden age of the Roman Empire. And even Goethe himself used the winged words in his "Italian Journey" in 1786: "Finally arrived in this capital of the world".

"Caput Mundi" is also the name of the foundation through which Rome's city administration is implementing hundreds of measures at cultural and archaeological sites for the Holy Year, largely funded by the European Union. The fact that Mayor Roberto Gualtieri (Partito Democratico), who has been in office since 2021, spent ten years in the EU Parliament, five of which as head of an economic committee, may have a favourable effect.

The tourists standing in front of the empty Fontana di Trevi may not care. Marie and Ainoa from Lourdes in France, who are currently spending a few mother-daughter days in Rome, are a little disappointed. "But at least we were able to throw a coin into the fountain - in the pool," laughs Ainoa. So that tourists don't have to miss out on the custom that, according to legend, ensures their return to Rome, the city has set up a pool with a blue water background in front of the almost 50 metre wide fountain with the marble façade by Nicola Salvi (1697-1751). The coins will benefit the local Caritas organisation.

David from Michigan, who has exactly one day in Rome on his European cruise, finds the "paddling pool" in front of the monumental masterpiece rather strange. "Our guide explained to us what's going on here," says the man in his mid-fifties. "At least the construction fence is transparent so that you can see anything at all."

Will everything be ready in time?

After the renovation, the 12,000 visitors a day should be able to see even more of the 26 metre high façade populated with sea creatures: via a footbridge that runs across the fountain basin. According to Mayor Gualtieri, this will also allow the crowds of visitors to be counted. A restriction on access, including an entrance fee of around two euros, has not been ruled out for 2025.

The Pope's Holy Year representative, Archbishop Rino Fisichella, recently doubted that all the planned projects would be completed on time. In particular, the redesign of the Piazza del Risorgimento traffic junction near the Vatican Museums is making little progress, according to the pro-prefect of the Vatican Office for Evangelisation. Traders in the Borgo neighbourhood near the Vatican have also raised the alarm because a main traffic artery is to be renewed there - but during the feast year, when the pilgrims and tourists are already there.

In contrast, there is movement on one of the most important transport projects: The tunnel breakthrough between the Vatican and the Tiber was already completed in July. A modern piazza is to be built on top of the car tunnel, providing pedestrians with direct access from Castel Sant'Angelo to St Peter's Square. Gualtieri promised that the tunnel, which will cost around 85 million euros, will be completed by the opening of the Holy Year on 24 December. Until then, the many construction sites and detours are still giving the "Head of the World" a real headache.