Full of colour and thanks: this was the funeral of Pope Francis

Anyone over the age of thirty in St Peter's Square shortly after six o'clock this morning is in the absolute minority. Teenagers and young adults push their way through the streets of Rome, strictly guided by the numerous barrier tapes. The Borgo, the neighbourhood around the Vatican, is a kind of restricted area this morning - most of the streets are off-limits. This is because a major event is about to take place - the funeral of Pope Francis.

"Can I have a coffee?"

A few Spanish youths build a robber's ladder to get an overview of the crowds: Anyone turning into the street in front of the porta castello and thus in the direction of the Vatican will have hundreds of people behind them within minutes. Just as regulated as the entrances to St Peter's Square is the order in which people are allowed to proceed. This causes some congestion, but despite the early hour, it is hardly a stress factor. As a neighbour opens her window and sleepily looks out of it, a passer-by calls out to her: "Can I have a coffee?"

Anyone who travelled the same route two years ago - back then for the funeral of Francis' predecessor Benedict XVI - will notice significant differences. Whereas in January 2023 it was mainly older pilgrims praying the rosary, now it is an army of young people. This is because they are particularly called to make a pilgrimage to Rome during the Holy Year. Many will have had the trip to Rome in their diaries anyway. But the gay couple chatting to a group of nuns while waiting to enter St Peter's Square would probably not have been there before. Moments like these are as new as they are symptomatic of the pontificate of the Argentinian born Jorge Mario Bergoglio.

The sun has only just risen when the Via della Conciliazione, which leads from the Tiber to St Peter's Basilica, is already full. Having arrived in St Peter's Square, the numerous groups of young people have already formed many small islands where they sit on the ground. They are eating chocolate biscuits and other snacks while playing cards. There are still two hours until mass. Two young people sit next to it, praying the daily hymn in between before catching up on some sleep.

A simple wooden coffin

With the words "Requiem aeternam" sung by the choir, the entry of the cardinals begins, at the end of which the Pope's simple wooden coffin is carried into St Peter's Square. An Evangeliary lies on the lower end, beneath the cross carved into the wood. There is no wind and the sky is cloudless, with a few seagulls making their rounds over St Peter's Square and the dome of the basilica. The service begins.

It is a classic Vatican service, liturgically unfolded but without much pomp: the main language is Latin, with occasional Italian and readings in English and Spanish. However, the impressive backdrop of St Peter's Basilica, whose façade shines brightly on the developing summer day, makes the mass impressive and particularly solemn. The bright red colour against the light-coloured stone and the black of the suits of the numerous invited guests from the world of international politics create a multifaceted picture.

The congregation at the service is just as diverse. Some of the young people are wearing the likeness of Blessed Carlo Acutis, who should have been canonised on Sunday. In between, there are always individual religious, middle-aged people and senior citizens. The behaviour during the service is as varied as the age structure - everything from very pious to very casual. While some people pray fervently the whole time, others are much more informal.

The gospel of the service consists of a conversation between Jesus and Peter, in which Jesus repeatedly asks his disciple whether he loves him (John 21:15-19). This culminates in Peter's statement: "Lord, you know everything; you know that I love you. Jesus said to him: "Feed my sheep!" (John 21:17)

Re is interrupted by applause

The celebrant, Cardinal Emeritus of the Curia and Cardinal Dean Giovanni Batista Re, used this in his sermon to draw a long line from there to the life and work of Pope Francis. His advocacy for people on the margins, for interreligious dialogue, for the brotherhood of all people and for the integrity of creation are the themes that Re addresses. He is repeatedly interrupted by applause from the faithful, for example when he says that Francis wants a church for everyone "whose doors are always open". Re also emphasised the Extraordinary Holy Year of Mercy, as mercy was one of the key words for Francis. It ends in the here and now, in the Holy Year of Mercy. "Pilgrims of hope" is its motto. He emphasised this hope in particular at the end.

During the distribution of communion, it becomes clear that the Vatican's organisational scheme is out of sync due to the large number of people. There are not enough wafers for everyone. However, as you can see on the screens that the Via della Conciliazione is still full of people, you can be glad who has made it to St Peter's Square at all. Some are now on the hunt for a host, others are waiting for things to happen. Still others are more interested in the bottles of water - because it has become warmer and warmer and St Peter's Square is in the blazing sun.

At the end of the ceremony, the Litany of All Saints is prayed. Significant predecessors of the deceased, such as John XXIII, Paul VI and John Paul II, are also mentioned. As different as these popes may have focussed on different things, they all had an influence on Francis' pontificate. This diversity of the Church is also reflected in the prayer of the Eastern Catholic Churches that now follows. The previously predominant Latin is now interrupted by singing and prayer in Greek. Lined up on one side of the coffin, the clergy pray for Francis to be taken into the next life. Diversity has many faces on this day.

Curiosity joins grief

Grief is not the most frequently expressed emotion on these faces. They do exist, people with tears in their eyes. But much more common are the curious looks of those who have never been to a Pope's funeral before - or perhaps even to this place for the first time. The atmosphere is relaxed, almost cheerful. It is a colourful gathering around and in front of the altar. People's faces are often cheerful. One can assume without much speculation that the deceased would have enjoyed this.

As Francis' coffin is carried back into St Peter's Basilica at the end of the service to the sounds of the Magnificat, this colourfulness is once again particularly evident: flags from all over the world are waving in the breeze that has now arisen. They have also brought a few clouds with them. Wales, Argentina, Mexico, Switzerland, Albania and many other countries make an appearance. There are also a few banners. The most common phrase:"Thank you, Pope Francis." People clap throughout the Magnificat. As the coffin reaches the threshold of St Peter's Basilica and disappears into the vestibule, a cloud moves in front of the sun. Suddenly the light seems paler. If you like, you can recognise a symbol in this: Someone has gone who has cast a bright light on life for quite a few people. On this day, this light is dimmed. But one thing is certain: this cloud will also move on.